18 – 28 NOVEMBER 2011
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| Another new friend |
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| Group shot |
Day 2 and 3: it’s a nice start being on
a very roomy bus traveling east and stopping at a private reserve on the way, we’re
treated to close up views of the common brown lemur, who are tempted by food
the guides have for them There is also a jail
for chameleons that is very entertaining in the short term but when the group is
shepherded to a small local place for lunch, I demur and head elsewhere in the
village just because. I’m still settling
into a group mentality and enjoy some time out but returning to the group after
I had a plate of mixed salads and a delicious homemade yogurt, that seems to be
everywhere, I find they are still waiting to be served. Arriving at the town of
Andasibe, where we will stay for two nights, my roommate Anna is appalled by
the old chalets – “The toilet is in the room”. Oh dear. I think this may call
for staying away from the room to give her some space and the privacy that she
requires.
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| I'm on the top of the world |
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| Anna and I |
The Andasibe-Mantadia
National Park and its Perinet reserve is a world-renowned rainforest, covering
a total of 12,000 hectares, on an extensive region of hills covered by dense
primary rainforest. One of the park’s primary purposes is to protect the
natural habitat of the unique Indri, a large black and white marked lemur, the
world's largest lemur. That should make it easy to spot, eh? There are 62
different groups of the Indri, feeding on fruit and leaves, spending time on
the top of the trees eating and enjoying the sun. I was very excited to be
woken by the different groups of indris exchanging their territorial calls over
the ridges each morning – a loud sound somewhere between a hoot and a bark
perhaps? Tonight we are escorted on a night walk, but just how this bloke could
spot tiny little creatures in the dark had me baffled. Some of us thought that perhaps
they had glued the little creatures in the tree or that his mate was ahead of
us, popping them there for him to spot.. I mean the man had superhuman night
sight and with Kendall’s super torch we saw some very tiny creatures but
nothing too exciting. Next morning we are offered to split into two groups for
the mornings hike – which Brian tactfully titles team Lemur and team Chameleon
– he is very spot on in his assessments!
But both groups end up traipsing a lot
of hills and thick rainforest searching for lemurs – at one stage my group
(team chameleon, of course) were half way up a hill when the guide is
telephoned and we hear, “oh, they have moved”. Meaning we go back down the hill
to head in another direction! In the afternoon we head to a hotel’s private island
where lemurs are literally trapped for tourist to admire. And admire we did –
close up the indri looks just like pyjama cases we used to have on our beds as kids!
The group heads to another reserve to see more animals somewhere else (did I
care??) and I THOUGHT I was walking back to the nearby flash hotel for coffee with Anna, Ellen and Helen but after walking for
half an hour I mentioned that I thought the hotel was a lot closer. Ellen
replied that it was nine kilometres away. NINE KMS??!! Oops wrong hotel! It was
already 4.30pm, getting dark, a heavy storm approaching and we still have 2
more hours to walk??NO WAY! They were amused but I was just very disappointed
to be missing out on sitting down with a coffee really. It was a lovely walk
until the rain started and Ellen and I measured just how far away the storm was
by the distance between the lightning and thunder claps. IT was closing in
fast, and the rain was getting heavy and we were getting drenched. Coming to a
turn off and no one is quite sure which way so enough is enough for me - Ellen
and I wait at that point in case the bus came past whilst Helen and Anna walked
on further to another hotel. I hail a passing car whose driver who could not
speak great english, was a tour guide who had just dropped his clients off and
was happy to give us a lift AND he knew where we were going. HEAVEN. We picked
Anna and Helen up further down the road and how happy I was to be out of the
rain. Dropped back at the hotel, the group has not yet returned so we dry off and
settle in for a second night of easy relaxation.
DAY 4: A long drive today, heading west
towards Tana then heading south along Madagscar’s RN7, all along this stretch
of road we see rice paddy cultivation and lovely scenery. We make a stop at
Ambatolampy for a visit to the aluminium factory still working in a traditional
fashion, and contracting dreadful respiratory diseases in the traditional
manner too.
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| A GIRAFFE |
It was here that Keith failed to save me from a bouncing soccer
ball that hit me square in the eye. I got such a fright but Keith assured me it
looked alright so no bleeding is a good thing. Finding a shop selling little
frozen yoghurts that is just the thing for an ice pack and avoiding a black eye
so I was very pleased.
We arrived late
in the afternoon at Antsirabe or "Vichy Malgache", a colonial town, checking
into Hotel Hasina, nice accommodation approved by Anna and that evening we walk
through town to Restaurant Razafimanjy for a nice meal but the highlight would
have to be drinking the lovely Three Horses Beer from a GIRAFFE – an amazing
invention that keeps the beer very cold - check out the photo.
Day 5: In the morning we have some free
time to explore this quaint town of Antsirabe where Norwegian missionaries
initially established a health retreat here by Lake Ranomafana in the late
1800s. It became a chic spa destination for wealthy French colonialists.so I
visit the 19th century spa, Centre National de Cranotherapie and
Thermatasie Long name, clinical surrounds but after soaking in a lovely huge
bath then getting a very professional massage from two women, I’m in heaven. To
top it off I return to the hotel using a famous "pousse-pousse" (literally
push-push) along the wide boulevards and past the elegant façade of the
Imperial Hotel.
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| Parked pousse pousses |
There are so many pousse pousses here, a hand drawn rickshaw,
all brightly painted, named and used widely in towns throughout Madagascar but
a tough way to earn a living for many young men who sprint along with their
passengers or loads, often barefoot. The group visit a few family run handicraft
factories – metal miniatures, stunning embroidery and zebu horn souvenirs. Due
to popular demand, we stop off at a famous? but tasty chocolate shop, before
continuing on to Ambositra to check into the Hotel Mania. This town is also
built on a hill and the views around here are lovely. I escape for an hour to
walk through town and watch a gambling game before splurging a few ariary to
quickly lose them!
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| Thank you Jill, for this photo |
Day 6: Now because Ambositra is
reputedly home to some of Madagascar's best wood carvings this morning the
group head out to the Zafimaniry villages nearby to visit some wood carving
factories but I choose to walk through town because I cannot take wood home so
no good looking really. It is so enjoyable here – the houses are tall brick
edifices, long curing roads all wither up or downhill. There are numerous
artisan shops here in town so just in passing, there is some gorgeous inlaid
and marquetry woodwork. BUT I do find a hat I had admired at the streetside
stall the other day. The price is right and I buy it, very pleased with my
multi coloured raffia hat making my walk through town very worthwhile. I meet
up with the group again at a bank – still they are trying to change money. Many
are travelling with only US cash on GAP’s advice, too bad they didn’t tell them
that ATM cards work a treat here and local cash can be yours in a few minutes.
Enroute to Ranomafana this afternoon we stop in Ambohimahasoa for a traditional
lunch including some traditional dancing.. hmmmm Lunch is fine, but I am
finding the group interaction with locals very peculiar with cameras being
pointed at very poor children for ‘cute’ photos… I am afraid I just cannot
understand it really but that probably me being curmudgeonly. But I have seen
so much poverty that it just saddens me. Then there is the reaction to poor people
as a photo opportunity that is turned by locals into a money making opportunity
that is often regarded by tourists as appalling, a human zoo… 
We continue on the edge of Madagascar's High Plateau to
Ranomafana NP and check into the Ihary Hotel with average cabins on a hillside
but here local women offer massages for a very reasonable price. I’m still
looking to ease my sciatica which is flaring again so I indulge and get a
lovely relaxing massage and I give the night walk a miss. Even though one of
our participant’s selfishness is beginning to be a little wearing, dinner is
still fun and the company varied and good value. In 1986 Golden Bamboo Lemur
were discovered in the forest about 6km from this town and Dr Patricia Wright
worked with the government of Madagascar to create a National Park to protect
the species. Today, Ranomafana is one of the most important mammal sites in
Madagascar with the park covering 41,000 hectares of hills covered by
rainforest, at altitudes between 800 and 1,200 m.
Day 7: We head off on a morning forest
walk through Ranamafana’s diverse flora
and certainly get a feel for this incredible wildlife area - we walk immediately to the site of a very sated
boa partway through digesting an adult
lemur whose youngster was in the tree above, very distressed! We don’t find any
golden Bamboo lemurs but after splitting into two groups again (Yes, Lemur and
Chameleon), we walk looking for the classic ringtail and returning a short way
find a site with at least eight lemurs all seated on a branch with tails
hanging down and looking very Disneyesque.
We enjoy a scenic travel day heading south through Madagascar's
wine-producing region to visit the worst winery in the world – no joke. The
white wine was tinged with a coconut flavour and the red had a peculiar ‘nose’
of petrol. Stopping en route to Ambalavao we visit a family run silk factory to
see the cocoons being unwound, hand spun and woven into lovely silk scarves. I
own lots of scarves so I get the guys on the tour to advise me if any are
looking ‘blokey’ to take home as gifts – no go here. Arriving at Ambalavao by sunset
to check in to the lovely Hotel aux Bougainvillees, Anna and I are very
impressed with our room, especially Anna who gets her own space in an upstairs
loft. Ben makes a quick recce of the town and takes Lisa and I to visit one of
the local handcraft stores he found – really nice things here but still nothing
I want today. I really cannot see any use for the embroidered picture even
though they are beautifully made and gorgeous. And no blokey gifts here either.
Day 8: This morning Fano leads the
group on a nice walk through Ambalavao.. The walk was nice but nothing out of
the ordinary for me so when we arrive at a small restaurant and bakery I ask to
be excused to take my breakfast back in the lively market we had passed. Walking
back through town I enjoy the local Betsimileo architecture which is really
quite unique then I pass a small store, Soamiray, selling sustainable handmade
crafts. Finding (and buying) a basket (I am missing my Mozambique basket) I
rejoin the group who have been bussed back to our accommodation for a tour of
Fabrique de Papier Antaimoro, a traditional paper factory on the site.
The
paper is a papyrus-type paper impregnated with dried flowers and sold
throughout the island. Very nice but very ordinary…. I like my basket much
better. And reports of breakfast were a little sad with most disappointed with
the fare. Today we are driving through south-central Madagascar countryside to
impressive views of the Isalo Mountains and passing more Mahafaly tombs of
which we should neither point at nor photograph on Fano’s request. FADY is the
name given to a system of local taboos designed to respect the ancestors. I can
only imagine the inappropriate behaviours he has been witness to, so I see no
harm in him drawing the line for tourists he is guiding here. The selfish one
of our group however is very insistent about visiting the tombs, to which Fano
politely diverts her questions. The Mahafaly from this region have a
deep-rooted tradition of art and decoration of the tombs of their deceased, which
are considered sacred by local people. It’s a long haul today and just before
sunset we arrive at the lovely Isalo Ranch which everyone falls in love with,
because of the swimming pool with sunset views over the Isalo Massif and a
lovely meal together in the dining room. The bungalows are very comfy too!
Day 9: Isalo
National Park was created in 1962 and contains archaeological relics and
funeral sanctuaries creating an atmosphere of strong contrasts: the silence,
sun and sandy cliffs. 
The park covers 81,000 ha in this semi-arid region is spotted with meadow, along with open areas
void of vegetation and a series of sandstone rocks, cliffs, and canyons, and
home to endemic plants, such as a native species of aloe (aloe isaloensis). The
sandstone massifs sculpted by wind and rain create a scenic landscape and we
have a short walk within a small canyon and great views, to arrive at a natural
freshwater pool with cascades. Ahh now this is more like it – the water is
wonderful for swimming.
The group split again with a few us slowcoaches or that
would be team chameleon, returning the way we came to head back earlier to our
lovely accommodation to relax awaiting the tired Team Lemur, before checking
out and driving for the rest of the afternoon, leaving the pool behind. Traveling
from Ranohira on to Tulear, we pass through a wide-open, vast desert landscape
that is very interesting. 
There are the unique frontier-style sapphire mining
towns and we visit one institution providing sponsored education to the girls
from local communities. Next we are informed about Madagascar’s baobab trees –
there are eight baobab varieties in the world: one variety in Africa, another
variety in Australia and the other six varieties can only be found in
Madagascar!
There are the unique frontier-style sapphire mining
towns and we visit one institution providing sponsored education to the girls
from local communities. Next we are informed about Madagascar’s baobab trees –
there are eight baobab varieties in the world: one variety in Africa, another
variety in Australia and the other six varieties can only be found in
Madagascar!
Then a long drive south to finally arrive at Toliara, otherwise
known as Tulear, and Madagascar’s largest southern city and major west coast
port. Between Antananarivo and Toliara, on the Route National 7 or Route du Sud
we have travelled 941 kms! The sheer variety of scenery and fantastic
landscapes are unique to this island. Arriving right on sunset and passing
plenty of pousse pousses, we settle into our cabin accommodation which is just
passable for a night. There is free wifi here so that’s a handy thing for those
of us wired in. We are soon back together for dinner which is a set course
menu. Entrée was tasty and my main course of fish had a cockroach fried with
it… blah! But the drinks are fine and there is a band playing tonight so soon
most of us are up dancing and enjoying ourselves. 
Day 10: Next morning Anna and I pack up
when I am startled to see one of our group packed and trundling up to
reception. Anna assures me its only 5.30am and I know that Anna will be correct
– turned out it was Kendall being super keen and an hour early by mistake. Too
good Kendall! There is an early check in at Tulear airport and Fano manages us
all very efficiently. Plenty of time for breakfast, to relax and window shop before
boarding for a quick 40 minute flight back to Tana. Then there is another muck
around at the airport as some want to change money, some are departing
immediately and others board a bus to wait for everyone to be ready to leave.
Checking back into the Chalet De Roses and I assume I have a twin with Anna but
as she is leaving I will have it all to myself. But of course I assume wrongly
and day ten of this tour does not include accommodation. Very odd, but the
upshot is after moving into a room I get asked to move that evening. 
Ah well, I
still end up in a nice room later that evening. In the meantime as a
compensation for the change in itinerary, G Tours are offering for those
interested, return transport out to Ambohimanga so I am very pleased about this.
This was the original capital of the Merina royal family, remains a sacred site
and was UNESCO listed in 2001 as ‘the most significant symbol of the cultural
identity of the people of Madagascar”. The traditional entry gate remains along
with the pre-colonial Kings palace with its central rosewood pole which was
reportedly carried from the coast by two thousand slaves and the open air baths
for the king and his twelve wives whose bath water was consider sacred after
use and distributed to the kingdoms subjects! Also on site is a lovely wooden
summer palace of the queens, constructed in 1870 by a French engineer that has been
somewhat restored and filled with some lovely European furniture of the times.
The wall surrounding the structures was constructed using a cement made from egg
whites – 16 million eggs were required to build the outer wall alone!! 
Also
within is a rock where slave were sacrificed and pilgrims still come today to
slaughter animals on the same spot to ask the blessings of their royal
ancestors. Our guide was lovely but judging by my photos, she was also very
tiny! Don’t know exactly what happened to the perspective of my photos there…Tonight
we are dining at Sakamanga’s restaurant and by the time I join the group, (yes,
I ran away again) all are seated with only one chair between Fano and Sigrid is
available. I’m already half happy on mojitos from up the road (celebrating my
new found independence perhaps?) and soon its Fano’s turn to give the ‘south’
group a farewell chat and welcome newcomers for the northern trip, with tomorrows
arrangements – a 4am departure!!
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| Part of that egg white wall |
The large group behind us are a little noisy
but we all manage to hear ok, however when I notice Sigrid sidle up to Fano and
insist on going home on her own I realise all is not fine. Especially when Fano
loses it and yells at Sigrid that she cannot go back because I am still there
and it is my room she has to move to – I AM MOVING FOR HER?? ARRGGHHHH Sigrid
goes back to her chair sniffling and I reassure her that she should listen to Fano
and do as he asks. Seriously that woman needs her hand held for every step of
the way and would she know her way now? No, because she is so blinkered to anyone else! Then the noisy group ask our group
to be quiet while they speak together and that sends Fano over the edge! A
lovely polite, reserved malagasy who would do anything to avoid confrontation spits
the dummy! Not a pretty sight, and a rather sad finale. When we return to the
hotel there are a couple of us sitting up with Fano who feels he should wait up
till 3am to welcome the next tourists. We assure him that leaving a welcome
note with instructions re the departure time – 4am, won’t she be happy? – would
be appropriate and that he is obviously tired and should go home to rest. He takes our advice and we all parts ways
with only three of us remaining tomorrow morning, Claire, Gregor and I.
FACT: Roll call of my tour participants’ countries:
Madagascar, Australia (Melbourne, Sydney and Perth), Scotland, England, Sweden,
Denmark, Canada (Edmonton and Vancouver), Austria, USA and Israel. Wow nearly a
United Nations!
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