8 – 14 AUGUST 2011

CAPETOWN AGAIN

Monday is Oppikoppi’s pack up day and the lines of cars leaving started quite early. The return convoy bus wasn’t due to arrive until 2.30pm which was, by my estimation, going to cut it a little fine to catch my flight to Capetown at 6.30pm tonight so I decided to strike out on my own to get back to Pretoria or Jo’burg. Easier said than done!  I walked to the exit gate and started hitching. Then locals tried to help me hitch. Then I started calling destinations in the hope that someone might relent and give me a lift. BINGO Then it was a slow crawl to Northam where I sat waiting for the taxi to fill. A few hours later we arrived in some outpost where I changed again for Pretoria to then change again for the train station to get the Gauteng train to the airport. Arriving in time to check in I was approached by a bloke trying to get a netball uniform down to Capetown for his wife. I immediately thought of Merryn at work, and agreed to take it for him, we exchanged details for his wife to have a sign looking for me when we disembarked and then promptly forgot about catching the plane!! How I did this, I have no idea other than forgetting to think after such a big weekend??

When I finally noticed the time it was 6.16pm which reminded me that my flight was at 6.30pm - I hadn’t even gone through security. Aarrgghh I raced through the xrays then ran through to find a closed gate without any personnel. OMG now what? I found a couple of airline staff who assured me I was too late, the plane was ready to taxi and that was that. I showed my boarding pass with the luggage chit and asked if they had removed my bag? “What bag?” Oohh now there’s a snag. Their records showed I had checked in without a bag but my boarding pass showed differently. After a chat with someone who could make a decision they decided it was quicker to let me onboard than take my bag off. Phew, Thank goodness for some rules eh? Or perhaps my karma was in good nick cause I was carrying that netball uniform? LOL

Arrived in Capetown still in disbelief that I had nearly missed the flight, handed over the uniform and wished the netballers the best of luck in their national comp. Caught the last bus to the city and checked in to Penthouse on Long backpackers, which is super comfy. A quick walk up the street to visit Davina and Sue who had also arrived today, at their four star digs, I find that their reception can’t ring up to their room because it’s after 10pm – 10.03pm to be exact!! Grrr I negotiate, he asks someone else and then he tries to call them – they are on the phone. He tries again and again, same response. I tell him there are two people there, if one is on the phone, perhaps I could go up and the other lady could answer the door – no, I am not allowed up there. Eventually after 20 minutes of my very patient waiting he decides he will go up and ask. Soon enough he’s back and escorts me up to their LOVELY room where they are bearing gifts from Terry and news of their trip so far. We chat about their plans over the next few days and sort out that we will probably catch up over dinner each night to allow them to visit the big tourist spots that I have already seen. Soon enough I’m admiring the views from their hotel’s glass elevator which are FABULOUS and dine out on Long St until late. 

The next day is Women’s Day and with fine weather I decide to tackle walking up to Table Mountain via the Pleterklip Gorge. By the time I get organised and out to the lower cable station its nearly 1pm, the walk is timed for two and a half hours so I give myself until 4pm before thinking of turning back before dark. Up and up and UP I go, slow as a wet week BUT I make it to the top before 4pm and relax somewhat now knowing I can catch the cable car down (I’m sure that’s not cheating). There are plenty of locals and tourists alike up here because of the public holiday with gorgeous sunshine to boot. I get the tourist bus back to town via Camps Bay, a seriously lovely area of Capetown and meet up with Sue and Davina for dinner at Timbuktu in Long Street – serving Ethiopian food!

I make a big decision to shop for a few replacement clothes because my clothes are wearing out after six months of constant wearing and washing and Capetown is just the place! I visit the city station to conquer the Metro train and bus systems to catch the train out to Pinelands and visit Cape West Girl Guides HQ, buy up on Girl Guide biscuits, a few souvenir badges and chat to the Region Commissioner, Cathay Hannay who confirms Saturdays Region Day arrangements. I head back to town to meet up with Sue and Davina and we have dinner at the Signal Hill Tea Room – a restaurant with a long history and fabulous view of Capetown up a very steep hill.

Jolly hard getting this high but the views were pretty good!

Via email, Sue Fourie has kindly invited me to visit her Girl Guide unit at Rosebank and she picks me up at the nearby train station (I’ve got this metro system sussed now). A unit of about 15 girls with a few away because of Ramadan, are very welcoming. I run a game of Jacobs Ladder using Aussie animals, talk to them about Guiding in Australia and offer up the last of my swap badges which they eagerly accept.  This evening has one group making bags, painted with the World Badge, one small group doing badge work and another group who I help create invitations inviting elderly neighbours to an afternoon tea in a few weeks. Soon enough the night is over and Sue kindly drives me back to town and we talk easily all the way there. Tonight I’m out to Mama Africa to meet up with Sue and Davina where the music is great with a large band including a brass section and three marimbas. They are lots of fun and the girls have already been chatting to them and bought their cd!

Bo Kaap, Capetown

Sue and Davina’s last day in Capetown and it’s a grey rainy day.

We walk about town to the Muslim section of town, called Bo Kaap, then over to Company Gardens and a few last minute buys for Sue. We farewell each other as they taxi off from their hotel to catch the bus to the airport. I spend a leisurely afternoon visiting the Old Town House on Greenmarket Square to check out the lace painting skill of a few Dutch Masters there. Later I head down to St Georges Cathedral (Desmond Tutu’s Parish) to walk their George’s Labyrinth, Siyahamba and visit a fab display Glimpsing Hope, Marching for Peace. It documented the peace march initiated by the clergy of Capetown, 13 September 1989 here in Capetown and violent reactions by police forces of the times. Tonight’s dinner at the hostel is a traditional Sth African Braai at their rooftop bar – delicious food, nice people to talk to but pity about the wild and windy weather.

My last weekend in Capetown, Woodstock’s market is on again and as I’ve now mastered the Metro, it’s easy to reach without a car. I pick up a few yummy snacks to fortify me and then return to town to visit the bric-a-brac shop I saw at the cathedral yesterday. I pick up a few bits and bobs (of course) then travel by bus out to Retreat for a Girl Guide Safety Day with the Cape West Girl Guides, that Linda Botha had done a great job organising.

I meet up with Cathy Hannay again at this Region Day complete with emergency vehicles and a lovely fireman who leads the younger girls on a crawl around the large hall to escape a burning building.  Alas at the end of the day one of the emergency trucks had broken done on the school grounds and was awaiting (emergency?) help to get started again! 

Tonight I have a kind invitation from Kaash, whom I’d met in Namibia, to be picked up from Retreat and join her family for dinner. Kaash and her family are Muslim and as it is now Ramadan supper was post sundown. They live in a lovely house at Mitchells Plain which is a HUGE area of Capetown and little visited by tourists. We shared a delicious home cooked meal with lots of courses interspersed with rest breaks for chat, prayer and cigarettes!

After fasting all day, you are very hungry so it is better to eat small amounts, rest and then return to the table for more. Kaash’s Mum also had some friends over and everyone was very welcoming and very interesting to talk to along with their enthusiasm for sharing their culture and beliefs. Soon enough the evening was late and Kaash and her lovely boyfriend kindly drove me all the way back to the city centre!

My last day here in Capetown AND South Africa, I’ve arranged to meet up with Gyda, whom I had met in Durban. The weather has returned to sunshine and as I walk down Long Street towards where she is staying when I hear my name being called out and see Inga walking towards me. Inga was working an internship at Chameleon in Namibia and we toured together there and now we are both amazed that in such a big city we have met up so randomly!!

Inga and I in Long Street, Capetown

She is travelling with her boyfriend and I recruit him to take photos while I tell Inga that I had caught up with Kaash only the night before! Amazing! I continue walking to Gyda’s hostel and together we visit the Victoria & Albert Waterfront on the great Myciti bus. Plenty of window shopping here with lovely views now the sun is back today and great walking. Gyda is looking especially for cd souvenirs for her parents who are a conductor and chorister so a bit of time in cd shops and souvenir sheds. We head over to the Nelson Mandela Gateway enquiring about tickets to Robben Island for Gyda. They offer her a half-price ticket and plenty of reading material due to her hearing disability. Then when we walk around the museum showcasing the history of the Island’s football teams, we chat to the receptionist who knows of a woman on the island who can sign – she puts Gyda in contact with the woman and before we leave all is arranged: she will have a signing guide for her visit, along with a half-price ticket and plenty of background material to read and Gyda is very pleased with this. Soon enough we farewell and head back to our respective hostels, promising to email photos etc.

Gyda and I

Time has come for me to pack and prepare to leave South Africa – which includes a parcel to post early next morning which was the easiest I have sent yet! Easy flight to Jo’burg then the Gautrain to Rosedale and taxi to Park Station to relax before hitting the road to Zimbabwe and the slow crawl up the eastern coast countries. I am over half way through this trip now and I know my time will speed by now. I haven’t done a lot of research for this part of the trip yet  BUT I know I heading towards an established route of travel, will meet lots of people travelling from where I am headed and hope to glean lots of info this way.. Insh Allah Wish me luck

FACT: The newspaper reports that twelve villagers were arrested in February after a pastor at Jeppes Reef was burnt to death. The pastor was dragged from his house and set alight after villagers accused him of talking to animals and using an invisible magic penis to sleep with women in the settlement. His house was also burnt and his wife is now in hiding after being accused of turning into a snail and terrorising the community. One of the accused has since died after complaining of painful and swollen feet and vomiting blood (beaten in custody?). The remaining accused are still waiting to hear when they will face trial for murder and arson after their case was again postponed until September.

I reckon this one belongs in the Believe it or Not category.