9 – 12 SEPTEMBER 2011
ILHA DE MOZAMBIQUE
The bus fills gradually and by 9.30am we’re off with only a
few police roadblocks with the last one giving us the most trouble. A couple of
back seats have been paid for and are being used to transport ten long boxes of
hundreds of tiny chirping chickens. Now when they are loading them on, I do
consider the risk of avian flu but they do provide a pleasant background noise.
One policeman takes immediate exception to this cargo and tells the passengers
that it is illegal for chickens and people to travel together.
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| On the bridge to the island, on a matolo |
Everyone remains
silent as the driver and jockey try pleading their case. The policeman comes
back on board to tell us all off for allowing it to happen in the first case
and one passenger answers that they have no rights. The policeman takes
exception to this and assures everyone that they should immediately report such
cases as these to the police straight away. RIGHT! AS IF anyone in their right
mind would give up their seat while a bus is loading, to go and report the
‘crime’. Meanwhile my seat buddy buys up
snacks all along the way and insists on feeding me – like I need it – but so
kind, eh?
We eventually reach the island’s bridge – all 3.5 kms of it
and change over to a small matolo because the bridge cannot take the weight of
the minibus. With this move one lady discovers she has lost a 10kg back of
maize and there is much fretting about this but nothing anyone can do about it.
Another man starts telling me that the muslims here hate the Christians – he is
a Christian here with his church to paint houses… what can you say to such
statements other than to nod your head and wish them luck I guess. I eventually locate Ruby’s Backpackers – it
is FABULOUS!! 
Owners are away and friends are looking after it ans are oh so
friendly. There is a great kitchen so I can cook up the produce I bought on the
train ride, the dorm is fantastic, the rooftop terrace is amazing and the music
is always good. WOW and after a few
hours of walking around I find the island is FABULOUS too.
The crumbling edifices remind me of Havana, the winding
sandy laneways remind me of Yazd in Iran and the nicest time to walk is late
afternoon and early evening when everyone is sitting out catching a cool
breeze, chatting to neighbours, children playing games in the streets and
stores slowly closing up for the night. Add in the lovely Portuguese language,
a full moon and warm weather it is all added up to a fantastic place to visit.
There is the daily walk to the fish market to choose between a fresh fish or
prawns or a lobster to cook up with my fresh vegies. And when the sellers are
down tho the last kg or so they come knocking at the backpackers to see if
mzungus will buy.
Unfortunately I am beginning to suffer – a bottle of
decongestant 
I bought in Lusaka is all but finished and still I’m coughing. I
visit the pharmacy here, cough for him and he suggests a week’s worth of
amoxicillin. I take it and after a few days find some symptoms easing so I hope
for the best. Meanwhile Tony, he of the sim card in Nampula is ringing me evry
day but I am as bad here as at home and rarely hear the phone if I have it with
me so I miss his calls. He takes to messaging me every day to declare
unswerving love and ask when I am returning to Nampula. I give him open
answers, which here in Africa is very acceptable – better than telling the
truth.
I bought in Lusaka is all but finished and still I’m coughing. I
visit the pharmacy here, cough for him and he suggests a week’s worth of
amoxicillin. I take it and after a few days find some symptoms easing so I hope
for the best. Meanwhile Tony, he of the sim card in Nampula is ringing me evry
day but I am as bad here as at home and rarely hear the phone if I have it with
me so I miss his calls. He takes to messaging me every day to declare
unswerving love and ask when I am returning to Nampula. I give him open
answers, which here in Africa is very acceptable – better than telling the
truth.
The days pass quietly and peacefully walking form one tip of
the island to the other – it is only 3 kms long and
only 500m at its widest point. Stonetown has many interesting buildings that
include an old hindu temple, disused banks, colonial administration buildings
and every corner is another view where yesterday at a different time of day it
was different. I really love the mixture of Portuguese, indian and muslim
cultures colliding peacefully enough although the majority of people are also
desperately poor here. I am very happy I made the effort to get here and it has
been more than generously repaid in the sights, sounds and general atmosphere I
have found here. If you ever get a chance, go to Ilha de Mocambique – exotic
and lovely, palm trees and the biggest, most ornate hospital I have ever seen.
Old mansions, churches and military installments. 
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| Vasco, himself |
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| The Palacio |
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| aaahhhhhhh |
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| Straw/thatch at Macuti Town |
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