Grand POPO, Benin

23/24 APRIL 2011

GRAND POPO

Easy trip around the lake via to arrive in Grand Popo (the big poo?). I walk to the Lion bar where all rooms

Peace & Love man, at the Lion Bar

are full but they have good tents pitched on the edge of the beach. Fantastic – great sea breeze all night and leaving only the screen zipped up giving a great view across the waters to watch the lightening miles away each night. Cheaper beer to be had a 5 minute walk up the road, along with local pepper soup for a good

Camping @ The Grand Popo

dinner. Back to the Lion Bar for a night of DJ reggae and the rastas are having a fine time, mon! Still there is plenty of good company about and interesting folk to chat too. Soon enough I discover that after those couple of Lion cocktails and many beers it’s nearly 1.30am! Thankfully those coconut cocktails had plenty of hydration to combat any hangovers – what a treat! Easter Sunday I head out for day trip to Ouidah, only 42 kms west of Popo. Ouidah’s history is central to the fact that it had the only port in Benin until 1908. Thus it was here that at least 12 million captured africans were enslaved, sold and deported to the Americas. There is another Point of No Return (along with the requisite point of return nearby) at the end of a 4km road to the beach, lined with fetishes and artistic monuments such as the Monument of Repentance and the Tree of Forgetfulness where it is said the enslaved were forced to circle a tree to forget the land they were leaving. The town’s Musee Historique is housed in a Portuguese fort with lots of photos linking the Brazilian and Caribbean cultures with Benin’s ancient traditions. I also visit Maison de la Memoire de Ouidah, a lovely old house with a fabulous exhibition about African women, celebrating their history, roles, cultures and customs using art, photography, quotes and antique artifacts. During my wanderings about town I pass a compound where there is much activity and drumming happening. I hand about the doorway and spy real, live Fetish (traditional) priests costumed to the hilt providing ceremonies for the compound’s residents and relations who are also beautifully dressed often with identical fabrics sewn into different designs to signify the different family lines. I get invited in to watch and each time one of the priests spots me they approach to solicit a donation. After 3 priests I’m all out of small change which is a tad embarrassing as they turn away empty handed, probably laying curses on me.

A real live fetish priest

Easter Sunday tipple

I notice each priest has an escort with a stick – their role seems to be guiding the priests way, smoothing and adjusting their costumes as they sit or stand, all without making any physical contact then bobbing down nearby awaiting the priests next move. I am befriended by a couple of young guys who immediately bring out the libation – a huge bottle of whisky filled with locally made schnapps. Its only 11am and I always try to be polite and partake but after two shots I begin to doubt my ability to return to Grand Popo today if I continue drinking so I slow down and try to beg off much to their disappointment. With the drumming musicians all now asking for a share of libations the bottle is soon emptied and then beers are called for – now I can partake again! lol This event will go on all day accompanied by more drinking so eventually I take my leave to explore some more of Ouidah. But to really see the fetish customs being practised locally was amazing along with the fetish shrines around in the compound complete with bones and charms.

I have left the thrill of visiting the Temple des Pythons till last and after being shown around the yard with ceremonies and beliefs explained, a room is opened that is filled with hundreds of napping pythons lying about the floor. I did not venture further than the doorway and it was very creepy, especially when the guide insisted on draping one around my neck, telling me in french that it has no teeth – I would have loved to ask if the pythons don’t have teeth or do they remove them? Lol Alas my french just doesn’t extend that far.

Mother of all Pythons

Time to head home and that is exactly what everyone else is thinking this Easter Sunday cause all cars passing through Ouidah are full and it takes nearly an hour before I get a car back to Popo. Back to the beach, stars and tent for another lovely night, sans cocktails!

If you're happy and you know it, hug your friend

FACT: Angelique Kidjo was born here Ouidah, Benin but now resides in New York – can’t say I really blame her for that! Check out www.kidjo.com