25/26 SEPTEMBER 2011

TANZANIA– Country number 19 – Formerly TANGANIKYA

SECOND VISIT

After a very smooth, two hour ferry trip back to Dar, I disembark and get stamped back into Tanzania again. Walking from the port I manage to get lost again.

Smoking must be good for your singing?

There is something about these curly Dar streets that I lose my way every time, even when I think it should be straightforward. I cannot fathom it especially when I often have a reasonable sense of direction. So after walking twice as far as I should have, I check into the YWCA’s nicely netted room, dump my pack and get a dalladalla straight out to Ubungo bus station to book tomorrow’s bus to Moshi. AARRGGHHH As soon as I enter the general area of the bus station I am assailed by touts – “sister, sister where are you going?” They make money by taking you to bus companies’ ticket counters and claiming a commission on the cost of your ticket.

Naturally your ticket costs more so the trick is to find the right counter without any help. All the while being hassled by at least five or six blokes all yelling at me “sister, sister where are you going? Arusha? Moshi? Nairobi?” At first I don’t have much luck finding the company I want, while many tell me they are Dar Express – but I know they’re not so it is very frustrating. Eventually one man takes pity on me and says quietly “44 and 45, Dar Express.” Thank heavens some people are kind in amongst the rogues and I immediately find counter 44 and 45 to get my ticket to Moshi without any further ado.  Later I chat to a local about my experience here and he gives me some very invaluable advice – as soon as you arrive tell them “I already have a ticket” and they will immediately leave you alone. After the bus station trauma, getting the dalladalla back to town was easy and I lash out on a taxi to the Masani Slipway, a recreational spot for well-heeled locals and expats alike, to watch the sunset with a Safari beer in hand. Aaahhhhhhhh

HUH??

A nice easy evening packing for tomorrow’s foray west to Moshi and leaving the YWCA in the early morning, the guard fetches me a taxi. We soon find the traffic around Ubungo is so heavy  even at 5.30am that I get dropped a block away and walk the rest of the way to slip through the touts grasp at the entrance because “I have a ticket”. Easy but long bus ride to Moshi – why? The trip used to take six hours but now the government tells the buses they have to keep to the speed limit to reduce accidents (could someone tell that to bl**dy  Ng’itu Express). So now it takes nine hours to reach Moshi from Dar es Salaam. But all the way there is great scenery, as we head past the Usambarra Mountains here in northeast Tanzania towards the major coffee growing region of Tanzania.

More hassle here in Moshi on arrival but I manage to walk the kilometre into town unaided. First three places are full but each one kindly directs me onto another place and eventually I check into Kilimanjaro Backpackers Hotel. Tiny room but I’m only here one night to see if I can see the mountain – I have no intention to climb it for I am far too lazy. Walking around here in Moshi I gain new friends on every block – as soon as you shrug one off, there’s another guy (AND they are all blokes) waiting at the next corner. Honestly some of them run when they see you so they can be first at you to greet you, question you, be your friend and then sell you something on which they can get a commission.

There's a mountain somewhere under that cloud

I try looking for Mount Kilimanjaro but have to ask to know which way to look as the sky is full of clouds. Hopefully sunset may see them clear somewhat. Kindoroko Hotel is booked out so their rooftop bar is closed to non-residents. I spy another hotel rooftop from the street and head up there to find out that yes they do have a rooftop bar so up the stairs I climb to the fifth floor. It’s a funny place with a different warning at each floor about keeping quiet. Upon reaching the top floor there are no staff, but great views so I enjoy a peaceful view of Moshi waiting for the clouds to slowly lift at sunset. They do to a certain extent but there is no clear view of the mountain tonight. Soon enough an ‘old friend, remember me?’ turns up and sending me off back downstairs to the streets of Moshi for a sunset beer, dinner and early night to travel  to Arusha tomorrow.

Over breakfast I get talking with three Israelis who are leaving on safari today. I ask them lots of questions about how they picked the company because I am so turned off by the street touts here. The girls tell me that it’s a wonderful company, they used them to try and climb Mt Meru, he’s a very nice man and you just have to give them a chance, they tell me. A Slovakian guy is also going on the same safari today along with a Spanish couple. When I ask Juro more questions he kindly gives me the company’s card – Totally Wild. This used to be a popular kids tv program at home, so on a whim I head around there and find they can fit one more person on board. I figure that the other travellers would have asked lots of questions and they are happy so I pay my money and I’m on. Or should that be off on Safari today!!

FACT: At 5896m, Mt Kilimanjaro is the highest peak in Africa and the destination of many wannabe climbers because apparently you can walk all the way to the top without ropes or climbing experience. I remain untempted by this fact.