How BIG is the WORLD?: WESTERN CAPE road trip

Tuesday, August 2, 2011

WESTERN CAPE road trip

2 – 6 JULY 2011

WESTERN CAPE road trip

GARDEN ROUTE and ROUTE 62, South Africa

Flying to Port Elizabeth with a very windy approach to the airport unnerving Terry somewhat.

No problems picking up the hire car – a black Polo - and start driving west through to Storm River via Jeffrey’s Bay, the home of the Supertubes and the upcoming Billabong Pro Championship surfing comp. As we watched surfers taking polite turns on the waves we wondered if we may have been watching anyone famous practising for next week (actually it was just me who wondered!).

We got to Storms River just in time for the weather to turn cold, rainy and dark to look for somewhere to stay. The first few places we try are either full, not open or not to our taste (Tez didn’t like the bar of shooter drinkers).


Storms River

Eventually we find Tsitsikamma Backpackers with the biggest bed either of us has ever seen. In the morning we explore this locale to find mountains and forest, so green and peaceful especially after our stay in hectic Johannesburg.

Soon enough we’re back on the road with our next stop at South Africa’s highest bungy jump in the world! Off a very, very high bridge, Blaaukrans Bridge, 216m! The Terry watched a live telecast from their tearoom of a young woman literally being carried to the edge and pushed over the chasm. OMG, it still shills me to even imagine the thirll!

The Bungy bridge

Following the Garden Route highway and a long distance bike race through the Crags, we arrive in Knysna to find they are hosting their annual Oyster Festival – and Pick and Pay are major sponsors, meaning Pick and Pay are selling fresh oysters, shucked on the spot with lots of lemon, tabaso and crushed ice in take away containers. 1½ dozen oysters spice up our picnic lunch by the beach, in glorious sunshine while we watch local hangliders floating above the coastal cliffs.

Back on the road to George we head north towards Route 62 over the beautiful and historic Montagu Pass to the Klein Karoo and Oudtshoorn. We check in at the lovely Karoo Soul and book to see a Meerkat Experience the next morning. We keep our fingers crossed for a sunny day as apparently meerkats won’t emerge from their burrows if it’s overcast. Next morning we awaken to a bright morning so we drive out to the appointed meeting place to meet up with Devey Glinister. We found him to be professional and knowledgeable, giving us plenty of facts about the meerkats who eventually popped up out of their burrows one by one as the sun warmed the earth. They are incredibly curious to watch but when they move along the ground they are very similar to cats. Odd creatures all round really with their stance on hind legs being so human like. After returning to town we check out the CP Nel Museum, with its very own synagogue and Le Roux Townhouse, a so-called ‘Feather Palace’.

MEERKATS

Ostrich farming brought exceptional prosperity to the Klein Karoo during the late 19^th century, and many attractive sandstone buildings were constructed with money made selling Ostrich feathers when they were the height of fashion accessories. Ostrich leather is once again sought after and we make a couple of souvenir purchases ignoring the ostrich feather dusters and vividly dyed feather confetti .

We follow Route 62 that day to takes us to Ronnies Sex Shop, a curiously named stop with good food and a tourist following., so of course we had to stop there. Apparently was a quiet stop on the highway until a few of Ronnie’s boozed mates decided to add the word SEX to the store name. And since then business has never been so good!

We have make a stop at Napier, at a curious tree decorated with sweet potatoes celebrating their ‘Patatfees’ Festival, fronting a small art gallery, secondhand bookshop and joy oh joy, a bric a brac shop!! Fantastic! I picked up the best travel games set and Tez got a 1^st ed book of short stories. Nothing like a little retail therapy to keep you going, I say!

We wave goodbye to Route 62 and turn south before Monatgu, to arrive at Swellendum, one of South Africa’s oldest towns. After 3 or 4 turns up and down the main road past the HUGE Dutch Reformed Church (under Terry’s wise navigation, we eventually find the backpackers but are not too impressed.


Around Swellendum

The lovely proprietor recommends Elianthe’s Guesthouse, and as it’s a 3 star restored victorian house( built in 1815), Terry is more than happy. The owners are currently on holidays and a lovely family is ‘guesthouse’ sitting for them. There is a fab open fire in the lounge, the room is very comfy and the other guests, a group of buyers are very friendly. They make a recommendation for dinner and we take their advice, arrive and order. But soon we are asked by the owner if we are Australian and ‘our friends’ are waiting for us. at the bar out the back. We head back out to join them and they are great company and very interesting to listen to, if only for their open opinions on many local subjects!

Ahh thos Dutch reformers built great churches

Next morning I check out the mostly open air Drostdy Museum complex. Originally built by the Dutch East India Company in 1747, it is a series of official, town and country dwellings including an original kitchen garden.

A big drive south to arrive at Cape Agulhas, Africa’s most southernmost point where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans join. After obligatory photos and a lunch of yummy fish and chips we head over to Hermanus. Known as one of the world’s best land based whale watching destinations we check into an attic room at Hermanus Backpackers. Relaxed that night, watching a DVD, Hangover 2 (not as good as Hangover) in the comfy lounge. Terry is debating whether to go shark cage diving and puts off any decision till tomorrow, but by the time he asks the next morning the transport has already left.

Can you see a whale, Tez?

Alas, he who hesitates doesn’t end up shark bait! He consoles himself by accompanying me on a walk from the new harbour back to the old harbour in gorgeous sunshine, keeping an eye out for whales that regularly enter the harbour here. Alas, no luck on that count either but we do notice an odd creature on the rocks everywhere, a Rock Hyrax locally known as a dassie. All in all Hermanus was a nice place but more places are tempting us – Stellenbosch, South Africa’s wine capital and second oldest European settlement! mmmm

Another easy drive through lovely countryside, in gorgeous sunshine finds us checking in at Banghoek Place. Only two other travellers there and the room is very smart with a balcony. Downstairs kitchen and living area is just as comfy with coffee machine, free wifi and satellite tv! The town is lovely to walk around next morning and the Village Museum is an well restored collection of four houses: Schreuderhuis (1690-1720), Blettermanhuis (1750-1780), Grosvenor House (1800-1830) and O.M Berghuis (1840-1870). The SASOL Art Museum is fab with loads of contemporary art. Further walking brings us to a church that looks interesting – a few rand later we find it’s a 1777 powder house, disguised as a church to fool the brits! Sure had us fooled too! lol Soon enough its time to consult all maps to make the drive into Capetown, a very short distance of 60+ kms.

FACT: The Western Cape of South Africa reputed to be one of the world’s premier tourist destinations with fantastic landscapes, easy travel and fabulous histories (albeit colonial). Terry and I would definately agree!