Lobi Country

18/19 February 2011

Loropeni and Gaoua, heart of the Lobi Country

A UNESCO rated wall!

We're very sure this motorbike will fit on too

Out of petro

Q: OK when does direct not mean direct? A: When you are catching cut price transport in West Africa! Baobab staff dropped me at a reputable bus company to travel to Gaoua, but they weren’t leaving until noon. I wander down the road and ask about a minibus – it’s going tout-suite! OK I’ll get to Gaoua earlier and have more time to organise a trip to Loropeni,and the distinct Lobi country.. The minibuse leaves tout-suite alright, 3 HOURS LATER Arrgh, but I’m reassured a few times that we’re going DIRECTLY to Gaoua. Several hours later we arrive in Loropeni and most of the passengers luggage is unloaded, including mine. No we are not going directly to Gaoua – I have to wait around the corner for another bus going to Gaoua. Aarrgghh The first minibus is packed to the gills – no room there. Whilst waiting for the next one I’m lightly harangued by a lovely young man with a gentle grasp of english. There is auberge here in town. He can take me on his moto to the ruins this afternoon. I can visit the king’s tombs in the morning. I can continue on to Gaoua tomorrow. OK, it’s hot, late in the afternoon and after getting reassurances from him (worthless really), I agree and settle into a powerless auberge complete with mossie net hung sideways over the bed! V. peculiar. I’m whisked off by Ahmed out to the UNESCO rated ruins – and my word, the four walls are all that is left – good thing UNESCO is spending thousands to save it!  Apparently they were added to the register in 2009, are Burkina’s first ever and are surrounded in mystery. Perhaps a slave palace? hmm  Ahmed tells me to make sure I get at ticket from the office when I pay my money – he thinks the girl is dishonest. And he’s right on the money – she makes many a foray to delay producing a ticket, it’s down @ the office, then forgets the key to the office etc but to Ahmed’s relief a ticket is eventually produced. A quiet night in Loropeni follows where I am escorted and shown off around town, like the trophy I really am. Next day we head out on another moto (I’ve gathered by now Ahmed doesn’t actually own a moto) to Sanctuire des rois Gans d’Obire – now the Gans are not the Lobi, their society is matriachial and their deal was to bury their deceased kings secretly and then build structures with a representation inside. There are 9 generations of kings now there and the village of Obiri is still surviving quite nicely thank you very much. Unlike Ahmed and myself, whose moto runs out of petrol on the way back. We walk and walk and he rings buddies back in Loropeni to bring him out some petrol, yeah! Then we stop off at the Police Commissioner’s place where I nearly fall asleep in the heat while Ahmed is self promoting. Back to town, I pack and head off to wait for the mini bus cause Ahmed does not have a moto to take me to Gaoua. I’m thinking I’ve nearly given Ahmed the flick but when the mini bus arrives, he takes the ‘roof’ seat and travels to Gaoua too.. hmmm BUT he does help me find a great place to stay there. I head out on my own again for dinner and try the Soweto restaurant (nightclub/disco) for a meal. All is well until the music stops – I think it’s a power cut and go to pay my bill – no the waitress has tripped and banged her head severely on the concrete, is unconscious and fitting on the ground. Her workmates are all standing around after ringing for an ambulance (there’s a hospital here?).  All I could think of was how easy it was for something that severe to happen, and if it was me, what hope would I have – at least Vivienne had friends around her. Ambo turns up, and everyone takes an arm or leg to carry her out. I said a prayer for Vivienne and have no idea how she fared. Very chilling end to my evening, especially when I turned around and there’s Ahmed – how on earth did he find me?  Ahh Ahmed – he tried extremely hard, but its very difficult because I am NOT looking for a new friend, especially a 25 yr old african to take home… But he was very sweet.

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