I'm in heaven in Guinea

29/30/31 January

Hassan showing off HIS country

The Kitchen

Two wonderful days of hiking in the Fouta Djailon with Hassan Ali. I had been told that this would be worthwhile and all I can say is GO to Guinea Conakry. Beautiful waterfalls and rivers to swim in.  Amazing slot canyons and pristine countryside soon help to fade yesterday’s hardships. The countryside is gorgeous, and only women and children walking here for miles from markets to their villages, toting all manner of goods on their heads.

Another day, another swim in waterfalls

I struggle up some of these mountain paths and that’s without a big bucket of water on my head! lol There are hills, cliffs, rock formations and many paths crisscrossing the landscape, all framed by small villages. Truly relaxing here, more so than in Mali’s Dogon Country where we were badgered at every village by tuobob, tuobob (white skin) and cadeau, cadeau (gift, gift) by the children. Here we are mostly

5 Star accommodation

acknowledged with laughter, Bonjour, ca va?? and then ignored. I learn lots about Scott (In Guinea until the problems then Benin) and Joseph (Burkina Faso) who have both finished their 2 year Peace Corp service. Both going onto more tertiary studies overseas (read not back in the US!) and they are both very comfortable in each others' company (read into that what you will). All meals are provided here at the encampment, being both simple and filling including one sauce made from sweet potato leaves mmm. No power here so candles are provided which add to the general restfulness of the place. Hassan is a very well informed ∧ interesting guy who is so passionate about his local countryside which he knows like the back of his hand.

Guinea has recently had its share of troubles but after a couple of coups in 12 months things (politics?) seem to have settled down. Once returning after a day’s hiking we are all stopped by a bunch of blokes in unmarked uniforms demanding IDs from us. Of course we had none on us and Hassan was really hard pushed explaining to these blokes (thugs?) the reasons why. They were really only interested in what they could get out of us, which of course was nothing, as we didn’t have money on us either! Slightly laughable, only because they eventually headed off up the dusty to pursue more unfortunates than us! But it take a good ½ hour of hard talking for Hassan and the 2 peace corp vollies to fend them off! I just stood in the background like all good women should in these situations! lol

 Really hard to drag myself away after a couple of days there nestled in Guinea’s Fouta Djailon, but all good things must come to end, if only to lead on to more good things. Leave the peaceful encampment of Hassan Bah – for a 2 hour trip back down to Pita. The peace corp boys head over to wait for a Labe taxi and I find the Mamou taxi. Now generally the ‘taxis’ are sept place & here in Guinea the same car becomes a a nine seater. However today in Pita it’s a 2 door 6 seater meaning they are not expecting many passengers  – this is not a good omen for filling up up and heading off any time soon. I wander off looking for lunch – nothing of interest bar a baguette (how can they sell these hundreds each day?) and a couple of tomatoes. Travelling through to Mamou for an overnight stay I am again ‘subcontracted’ to different cars a couple of times – once in Pita and again in Dalaba – where we were all forced to a long holdup waiting for petrol. Get to Mamou and turn up at a forestry school looking for a room – they’re a little bit surprised, but acquiesce after I reassure them I can manage without electricity for a night. I’m given a whole block of rooms with kitchen, dining room etc. Great digs for the night and I dine on sardines and coleslaw after discovering cabbages in the market yesterday. Great to eat raw vegies which are usually not on anyone’s menu ever here. I have no idea what anyone does with all the vegies for sale in the markets, cause they certainly don't serve them up in meals!

FACT: Guinea Conakry is very undeveloped – electricity only 7pm – 7am (if you’re lucky) in the towns that I visited and transport all in private hands so no buses etc. But GO, GO, GO if you have the opportunity – it’s gorgeous, and folk are so friendly, especially when they’re not wearing uniforms!